Score The Soviet Standard.

KABIL.

Frost on the grass this morning forces us to snuggle back under the duvet until 9am. Paul sets off for the shower. Despite letting the tap run, the water remained cold. So, nothing else for it but to take a cold shower. It was freezing! Worried that Rosie would have to endure the same, I went in search of the owner. He soon solved it, he turned the taps to hot. Doh! He later came to the van to say that he and his workmen agree that I've achieved the Soviet standard. In two years'they have never had anyone take a cold shower.

After breakfast, we talk to him some more. He is a child of the communist era. He visited London in 1991 after the breakup and couldn't believe the amount of food on the supermarket shelves. They even took photos, back home they still believed that it was western propaganda.

As we are leaving, he tells us to call in at the alcohol supermarkets at the border. They are cheaper than Estonia and far cheaper than Finland. We do so and pick up 12 bottles of wine for the trip.

The site we're heading for is closed so we opt for a slightly dearer version at a hotel.

The village is 2km away but has little in the way of food or bars. It still has signs of the old regime, note the bucket on the well.

We opt for the hotel restaurant. Not cheap but definitely an experience. No Sauvignon Blanc so choose Verdejo. Think that I've ordered beetroot salad but it comes as an amuse bouche. I've really ordered steak tartare aka raw hamburger with pickle and mustard ice cream. Starter and dessert in one go. The mains were great, duck for Paul, pork for Rosie. The view from the restaurant window.

And sunset from the van later.