Meeting Mr Fifties (yes, that's now his legal name).

TJORNBRIDGE.

We've found a motorhome specialist in Uddevalle which is on our way to Gothenburg. Satnav takes us via a ferry which we learn is free because the cost is included in the Swedish road tax.

The garage owner is short-staffed because of the holidays but offers to get a mechanic to take a look at it. All along the way, Rosie and I have been speculating about the cost, whether it would need a new rack or if we would have to freight the bikes home separately. Despite the usual concerned looks, the mechanic agrees that he can refit the existing rack with a stronger support. Both he and the mechanic yesterday couldn't believe the flimsiness of the fitting. The mechanic needs to take his lunch so the owner lends me his pick up to drive to Ljungskile where Rosie and I have the Pensioners Special lunch of salad, meatballs in mushroom sauce with new potatoes and cranberries and fruit.

There is a convention on in Backamo, near to the garage, for hot-rod Husvagn (campervans to you and me). One guy tells me that he's souped up his van to a V8 engine. He shows me inside his van. It's jammed with 50's memorabilia. He explains that he's legally changed his surname to "Fifties"!

Our van is ready by 2pm. The cost is £140 which is far less than we had speculated on during our earlier speculations.

Rosie finds a parking site alongside a bridge with fabulous views. We talk to a family formerly from Bosnia. They arrived in Sweden at tge height of the troubles in the early nineties. The son, about 30, taught himself to speak English through watching movies. We share our experience of Croatia.

We go for a walk around the harbour and local campsites. We want to buy some wine to celebrate the fixing of the rack. The first campsite is packed because it offers a grilled dinner so we avoid it. The second site has closed the bar and doesn't serve alcohol anymore. The supermarkets only sell alcohol-free drinks and the local restaurant is closed for a private party. Water, anyone?